REPAIR PRODUCTS THE FOURTH STEP

If you are an avid 3 step beauty queen, or are looking to give your skin an extra boost, you may be intrigued to know about the fourth step you can include in your daily skincare regime “repair” which comes after toning and before moisturising.

1. Cleanse
2. Tone
3. Repair
4. Moisturise

Repair products target a particular concern such as dehydration, sun damage and age spots, wrinkles, dull skin or open pores, and are more concentrated than a moisturiser. They do not carry SPFs since unlike moisturisers, repair products do exactly as their name suggests and repair existing damage or problems. (A moisturiser's main purpose is to protect your skin). They can be used morning and evening, although you may choose to address different concerns and therefore use one type of repair product in the morning and another in the evening. Repair products can work very effectively in the long term. For more information on serums and to find out which are some of our favourite repair products are, read Choosing A Serum .

Also see, choosing a cleanser, toner and moisturiser .

3 Step Skincare Regime

Visiting the beauty counter can be a daunting experience especially with so many lotions and potions to tempt you. Knowing exactly what is and what isn't needed is no easy task. However, for a basic skincare regime most beauty advisers would recommend a three step process to be done twice a day, morning and evening.

STEP 1 - CLEANSE
Gone are the days when soap (which can strip natural oils and dehydrate skin) is the only option for women. A good quality cleanser can make all the difference to your skin. Used daily (often twice) you need your cleanser to be refreshing and conditioning, remove makeup and meet Other needs depending on your skin type. Find out your skin type.

CREAM CLEANSER
Cream cleansers do not require water to remove them and instead are tissued off. Cream cleansers are usually best for dry skins because they provide a comforting cleanse without water. They are also ideal for sensitive skins as they are made with comforting ingredients such as camomile.

MOUSSE CLEANSER
Mousse cleansers can be for normal or combination skin types and foam up when wet. They refresh and rebalance the skin.

GEL CLEANSER
Gel cleansers purify the skin and are ideal for oily skins providing a deep clean. They are often made with ingredients particularly refreshing for oily skins such as citrus fruit extracts.

STEP 2 - TONE
Toner's complete the cleansing process and make the perfect base for your moisturiser and makeup. They also remove excess oil, dirt and makeup. Toners work differently to your cleanser by doing something extra. This will depend on which type you use:

HYDRATING TONER
Hydrating toners work to soften and hydrate the skin. They are best for dry or dehydrated skins. They leave skin feeling comforted and soft.

BALANCING TONER
Skin balancing toners are designed for normal and combination skins. The revitalise, rebalance and condition the skin.

MATIFYING TONER
Toners which work to matify the skin often have oil- absorbing particles in them to help control sebum production which leads to shine. Matifying toners are best for oily skins which have over-active sebum glands.

STEP 3 - MOISTURISE
We could go on all day about the benefits of moisturising but, above all, a moisturiser will maintain the hydration levels of your skin preventing patchy and flaky dehydrated areas, protect it from premature ageing caused by the environment (99% of premature ageing is caused by the environment) as well as help to firm existing sagging skin. If you are still questioning the necessity of moisturising remember one statement – prevention is better than cure. Yes ageing is irreversible but, although you cannot stop the ageing process, you can certainly slow it down.
Moisturisers are also the ideal base for your makeup – your foundation will glide on, look more radiant and have greater staying power when applied to conditioned skin. Overall, by moisturising daily you are giving your skin the best chance to maintain a healthy hydration level and it
will look more radiant. Some people choose to use a different moisturiser in the morning than in the evening. It is also advised to use a separate moisturiser for your eye area where the skin is more delicate and may have different requirements. To find out which type of
moisturiser is right for you, read our article . Want to know what step 4 is? If so, find out about repair products.

DIY Facial

    DO IT YOURSELF
If you can afford the time and money to splash out on a regula facial at your local beauty salon
then your skin should be in tip top condition. However, for the majority of us who cannot afford
such pampering, the good news is that you can get healthy, glowing skin - that looks like it's been
treated at an exclusive salon - at home with the right skincare regime.

CLEANSING;
CLEANSER
Whether you are carrying out your daily, weekly or monthly skincare routine, you need to begin the ritual by ridding the skin of dirt and grime with a thorough cleansing session. If you have combination skin, then you are probably better off using a foaming cleanser that can
be washed off with water. Try Kiehl's Gentle Foaming Face Wash (£17.50 from John Lewis ), which gently softens and revives skin for a healthy and rosy complexion. If you suffer from spots and oily skin, use Benefit's You Clean Up Nice Facial Wash (£16.50 from Boots nationwide) as it will root out impurities without damaging or dehydrating the skin. For more information on cleansers see our article on 3 Step Skincare Regimes .

EXFOLIATOR
To rid the skin of dry, flaky skin and to brighten it up, you must exfoliate at least once a week. For regular sessions, massage in a gentle exfoliator with fine particles so as to not to cause any irritations. The massaging technique will also help to stimulate the facial muscles. Clinique's
Exfoliating Scrub (£16.50 from Boots and selected department stores) and also PeterThomadRoth Anti-aging buffing beads (£ 10.80 from PTR) will brighten dull skin by removing dead surface skin and can be used regularly. Ideally your skin should feel soft
and relaxed after its cleansing session. If it is tight or red-looking, you have probably used harsh
products that are not suitable for your skin type or have been over- enthusiastic with the scrubbing.

TREATMENTS;
FACE MASK
You can apply a mask as part of your weekly routine in order to restore radiance if you wish, but
weekly is not always necessary unless, of course, your skin is looking tired. Face masks are generally used just a couple of times a month to give skin an extra boost. Caudalie's Masque Purifiant (£18.00 from selected Boots) is great at ridding the skin of impurities,  with extracts of red clay is perfect for regular use since it cleans out the pores while re-hydrating your skin, to leave it looking radiant. After your mask has worked its magic, wipe it off with a warm cloth for better long-term results.

FACE PEEL
For a deeper exfoliation and brighter skin, use an at-home facial peel once a month after cleansing. With its clinically proven fruit acid ingredients including Blueberry, Goji Berry
and Grape Seed Extract, Origins' Brighter By Nature Peel Pads (£28 from selected Boots and
department stores nationwide) remove dead skin cells to reveal a softer and more youthful
layer of skin. With continued use the appearance of uneven skin tone and discolouration is
diminished. The pads allow for an easy and effective at- home peel.

MOISTURISING;
FACE MOISTURISER
To complete your skincare routine you will need to apply a moisturiser. Remember to massage it in gently so it can infiltrate deep below the epidermis layer, and also press gently around your sinus pressure points to help de-puff your skin. It is also vital to massage moisturiser into your
neck in uplifting movements if you want to help firm its appearance. Neal's Yard's Wild Rose
Beauty Balm from www.nealsyardremedies.com and selected Boots nationwide) are both excellent at hydrating the skin and will keep it looking fresh and conditioned for hours.

EYE MOISTURISER
Finally, don't forget your eyes - dot an eye cream such as Yes To Carrots’ Eye Can C Clearly Now Eye Contour Cream from beautybay.com around the eye area to de-puff your eyes and to help
reduce dark circles. Moisturisers and eye creams should be used daily for best results.

By Alabi Haleemah

WHY DO A MAKEUP ARTISTE COURSE?

STARTING OUT - CREATIVITY, CONFIDENCE AND CREDENTIALS
If you are serious about having a career as a makeup artist you should have some professional training to give you the skills and creativity you need to succeed in the competitive world of beauty. Although you may be naturally talented in makeup spplication, having training will widen your knowledge and teach you about all aspects of working as a makeup artist from hygiene to marketing your business.

If you want to do a specific genre of makeup such as special occasion makeup in order to work freelance, you can choose a course which specialises in that. For those who want to be flexible enough to do theatrical and fashion makeup too, many longer and more in depth courses teach all aspects of makeup application. A good course will give you the confidence you need to work freelance and overcome challenges. With industry approved qualifications, it will be easier to acquire customers who are likely to ask about your credentials.

CHOOSING A COURSE
Always aim for the highest certificate and most renowned course you can in order to set you apart from your peers in this competitive industry. Ig you wish to work in a beauty salon or spa, you will need a beauty therapy certificate rather than a makeup certificate. Beauty therapy courses usually take place at colleges with the award of NVQ. Although some salons
offer on-the-job training, most will only employ staff who have had training.
There are differing lengths of courses from 1 to 3 day courses, which are great refresher courses for already professional makeup artists, to courses lasting weeks, months or years. Most courses can be done full- or part-time, and in evenings or on Saturdays. Levels vary from certificates and diplomas to degrees. Some of the most renowned courses take place in Lagos such as at The
Makeup by Orsela and Kears Apparel but, many colleges throughout the country offer beauty therapy and makeup artistry courses.
All professionally run courses will give you the chance to build up your portfolio and organise a makeup kit – two crucial components of becoming a makeup artist.

REFRESHER COURSE
If you already have a makeup qualification, or have been working in a salon or shop as a makeup artist, or indeed as a freelancer, doing a day course can be a great way to refresh your skills and learn some new tricks of the trade. You may want to learn a new genre such as party makeup or new skill such as airbrushing if you mainly work as a wedding makeup artist. Some makeup artists do courses in order to completely change direction, i.e. from theatrical makeup to fashion/catwalk makeup, or vice- versa.
The world of makeup is a ever-changing one as new technologies and formulas lead the way to new makeup fashions and application techniques. Successful makeup artists must keep up with the times. Do not be afraid to learn from others or re-train; after all, this can be the perfect way to get some passion back into your work. At the end of the day, being a qualified makeup artist is all that matters whichever makeup genre you choose to work in. Perhaps one of the most important aspects of makeup training for freelancers is knowing how to market your business and build a customer base; so if you are trying to decide between a number of courses, choose the oin with business training too.

See also Becoming A Makeup Artist .

Becoming A Makeup Artiste

If you would like to become a makeup artist there are a number of different paths you can take to achieve that goal. While some makeup artists get trained on the job working in store as beauty advisers, others gain a certificate, diploma or degree in makeup application. Younger candidates are wise to study at college, but if you are changing career later in life there are some excellent short courses you can partake in to give you a Certificate in Special Occasion Makeup. See our article - why do a makeup artist course?


WHAT KIND OF MAKEUP ARTIST?
You must also decide which type of makeup artist you wish to become before training as there are a number of branches to the trade. With any makeup qualification working as a freelance wedding and special occasion makeup artist, or on a beauty counter in store, should be a possibility. Fashion and editorial makeup is very competitive and therefore advisable to do a tailored course. If you want to mingle with the stars, theatrical makeup courses can lead to all sorts of jobs behind the scenes in theatres, TV series and films.

BUILDING A PORTFOLIO
A vital part of becoming a makeup artist is building up a portfolio of makeup looks you have done, even if initially they have just been on friends and family. Make sure you have a range of looks in your portfolio on all ages and skin types. It is worth using a professional photographer, or borrowing a good camera, to ensure you can get high quality portfolio pictures. If you choose to work in special effects makeup, volunteer to do the makeup at your local theatre as it will look great on your CV and you may get some contacts.

GETTING A MAKEUP KIT
Many courses will assist you in getting a makeup kit together; this will be needed not only during the course but for when you start working as a makeup artist. Makeup course providers will only use high quality makeup and may have a deal with a cosmetics company so that their students can get discounted products. They will teach you about using makeup brushes, what's needed, hygiene and the longevity of makeup products.

SELF PROMOTION AND BRANDING
If you decide to work as a freelance makeup artist it pays to invest in a good looking, functional and modern website as the web is likely to be the place where the majority of customers will find you. Advertise your services in online bridal directories such as the one we offer. Some makeup artists choose to use their own name as their business name while others create a name. The
important thing is to be consistent when promoting your services in order to build a memorable brand.

NETWORKING AND EVENTS
Social media sites such as Twitter and Facebook are a relatively new way of networking and interacting with potential customers. Technology gives you the opportunity to go out and grab your customers rather than waiting for them to find you, and can really put you a step ahead of
your competitors. Although it is important to embrace the internet and its marketing benefits, don't stop attending events such as wedding fairs. Get branded business cards to hand out at beauty and bridal shows and give a few to previous customers so they may recommend you. If you are a wedding makeup artist, why not ask to leave a few of your cards in local hairdressers and hotels which cater for weddings.

PLANNING AND ORGANISING YOURSELF
Keep a diary so that you don't forget about appointments and always reply to email enquiries straight away. Take deposits on jobs to cover yourself in the event of clients cancelling. Also make sure you have the relevant insurance needed to protect your business. It is important
to offer makeup trials so that you can be sure your client will not have any adverse effects to the products you use. Although it will take time to build a name for yourself in the makeup world you can speed up the process by asking everyone you've done makeup for if you can use their pictures in your portfolio. Also keep copies of any published editorial work you get and the leaflets of any shows you've done makeup for, and you will, with plenty of hard (but fun!) work build up a regular customer base.

TYPES OF LIPSTICKS

It is easy to get attracted to a particular colour of lipstick, But that doesn't mean it is the most complementary colour or the best type of lipstick for your lips. Here we look at some of the different kinds of lipstick on the market and how to apply lipliner.

LIPSTICK
Lipsticks can offer sheer to full coverage in matt or shimmery finishes. It is possible to buy long wearing lip colours which are kiss, drink and food proof, although chapped lips can find these too drying and the colour may sit in lines. Dry or lined lips benefit from more moisturising and hydrating lipsticks, often with SPFs, such as Avon Beyond Color Plumping Lip Colour.

LIP GLOSS
Lip glosses come in a range of coverages. Full coverage lip glosses come in a selection of colours and can be used on their own for a complete look. Lighter lip glosses in clear and lighter shades can also be used on their own for a natural or subtle look, but can also add depth and shine to lips when applied over lipstick. They can be applied just to the centre of the top and bottom lip to create the illusion of fuller lips.

LIP CRAYON
There are less lip crayons on the market but they can be a great alternative to a lipstick for women who like a matte finish. They can also be longer wearing than normal lipsticks. Furthermore, a lipliner is not needed with a lip crayon because the crayon's shape allows you to line the outer shape of your lips.

WHICH COLOUR?
If going for a natural lip colour it will all depend upon your skin, hair and eye colour as to which shade will suit you best. But as a general rule, fair skins suit rose, apricot or mauve, brunettes suit mauve or berry and darker skin tones and black skins suit dark plum or rich brown shades.

APPLYING LIPLINER
Use a colour to match your lipstick or a natural, neutral base shade. Make sure your lipliner pencil is sharpened and soften it by smudging it on your hand before applying. To shape your lips, start on your top lip and work from left to right, shaping your cupids bow as you go. Working from left to right again, line the outer edge of your bottom lip. Next colour in your whole lips with your pencil. This will make a good even base for your lip colour and help its staying power.

How To Get A Smokey Eyes

For the classic smoky eyes look, use silver, grey and black eyeshadow colours and a smudgy black eyeliner. In this demonstrative article we explain how to achieve the look. You can also follow our step by step makeup tutorial to help you:

STEP 1
Using the eyeliner, draw rough horizontal dashes of eyeliner across your eyelids. Next, using the smudger, smudge the colour until it blends together. This will form a dark smoky base for your eyeshadows and help their staying power.

STEP 2
Apply the silver eyeshadow all over the eyelids and up to the brow bone using a large, flat, rounded eyeshadow brush. This is called the highlight.

STEP 3
Apply the grey eyeshadow across the eyelid using a small, flat, rounded eyeshadow brush.

STEP 4
Using an angled eyeshadow brush work the black eyeshadow from the far outer corner of your eyelids around the crease of your eyelid to about midway, forming a V shape.

STEP 5
Using a large, flat eyeshadow blending brush, blend the Amedium and dark colours together and soften the shadow where the two colours meet.

STEP 6
Using a small, flat, rounded eyeshadow brush, apply the silver eyeshadow in a vertical line to the centre of your eyelids. This will create a central highlight which will catch in the light adding dimension to your colour.

STEP 7
Add the eyeliner to your lower lash line. Start from the inner corner working outwards and use the smudger to soften the look. Then using an angled eyeshadow brush, apply some of the silver eyeshadow (or your medium shade) over the eyeliner to create a smoky effect. Alternatively, for a real dark and sultry look, try applying the eyeliner to your upper and lower rims working from corner to corner.

STEP 8
Finish the look with your choice of mascara. Remember, you needn't use grey and black eyeshadows to get smouldering, smoky eyes, but can use blues or browns
depending on your colour preference. Whichever colours you go for, as a general rule, you will need 3 shades of colour – light, medium and dark.